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American Quaker Sampler stitched by Krista

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Monday, 8 December 2014

MASTERING MARY - THE GROUP LEARNING PROJECT 2015

Time for another "Mary Monday" with 47 stitchers participating and 23 days to go to our start date.

I have had a couple of no-reply bloggers who would like to stitch Mary - I have no way of replying to you via the blog. If you follow the blog and have NOT signed up via Facebook for this project please email me - nicola.parkman@gmail.com. Everyone is welcome.

I have gathered my supplies and have been giving some thought to the thread for the whitework section which is charted using AVAS shade no: 111. If the sampler was just this section I would not hesitate to use it but with the stronger colours of the lower section I have been considering using no: 112 which is fractionally "bluer". PHOTO 1 shows both 111 & 112 with the other threads.


In the group we have a mixture of stitchers who will reproduce Mary exactly as charted and those who will adapt the sampler to their own taste. Where I make adaptations I will highlight the changes.

The sampler starts with SECTION 1 on the large white chart and the ROW 1 AND 2 are a satin stitched alphabet.

S T U V W X Y Z
A B C E F H I K L M N O P Q R

I will be changing mine to

A B C D E F H I J L M N O P Q 
R S T U V W X Y Z 

I will include a "J"

When I have finished the sampler I will go back and put a little something in the gap on the second row maybe the year and my initials. 2015 NP

Last week we looked at four options for satin stitching this alphabet and I have decided to go with the padded twice stitched version - see PHOTO 2 (the furthest S to the right)


ROW 3 in SECTION 1 is charted as faggot stitch which I believe when worked on the horizontal or vertical should be stitched as a Four Sided Stitch. See PHOTO 3 for the stitch path.


This stitch can be worked using normal tension or using a pulled tension for a lacy effect.

PHOTO 4 shows normal tension.


PHOTO 5 shows pulled tension.


PHOTO 6 shows my doodle cloth with rows stitched with normal and pulled tension.


You should choose which appeals to you

ROW 4 in SECTION 1 is again satin stitch with an X and a slanted and reversed S - PHOTO 7 shows this charted.


PHOTO 8 shows this stitched on the model.



The instructions on the chart state "try to run all counted satin stitches in the shortest possible direction". With these motifs that could be vertically or horizontally - see PHOTO 9 of my doodle cloth.


Note how the lay of the thread creates quite a different effect. The top and middle X's have both been stitched with the left X one thread and the right X two threads, the only difference being stitched on the vertical or horiontal.

If you find it difficult to stitch these out you can use a long stitch as a guide line - the third X on PHOTO 9. This will also act as padding.

Practice on your doodle cloth. You should choose the one that appeals and works for you. This is your sampler.

FIFTH ROW in SECTION 1 is a repeat of the THIRD ROW.

Next week we will focus on the SIXTH ROW which has some beautiful whitework motifs.

If you have any questions, suggestions or observations please ask away either by commenting below or messaging me.

**** TIPS OF THE WEEK ****

When applying tension on the four sided and faggot stitch do so by pulling the thread with your fingers rather than tugging on the needle which will quickly cause your thread to break.

Using a padding stitch will increase the amount of thread used so an additional skein may be required.

Mary is not going to be finished in a month and will be well handled by the time she is finished so we need to keep her in pristine condition.

I keep a pack of baby wet wipes on my workstation and everytime I sit down to work I routinely wipe my hands, even if I have just stood up to answer the phone. If I stitch continuously for 30 minutes I will pause to freshen my hands, when it is hot more frequently.

I have a large tea towel that I throw over my frame if I take a break during a stitching session. I never leave my work uncovered.

At the end of a stitching session remove your hoop or slacken the pressure on your roller frame.

For projects with speciality stitches I unroll the stitched area from the bars (I do not detach the fabric from the bars). I then LOOSELY roll the fabric and bars back up and pop them into a large clean pillow case for safe storage.

These are simple but good habits that do make a difference.

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